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Breaking the Meat Processing Bottleneck

Endowed Chair Puts the Right People in the Right Place to Address a Critical Problem

By Brian DeVore
January 3, 2025

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A cornerstone of creating a regenerative agricultural system in the Upper Midwest is reintegrating livestock onto the land in a way that farmers can add value to forages and grains while cycling nutrients in a manner that manure becomes a way to build soil biology, rather than a waste product to be disposed of. Over the years, the Land Stewardship Project has worked with numerous innovative farmers who are proving that such an environmentally sustainable system can be obtained via managed rotational grazing of cattle, sheep, and goats, as well as through deep straw production systems for hogs.

But it’s become clear that even the most innovative livestock production system is not sustainable in the long run unless farmers can find a way to receive a fair price for the meat and other animal products they produce. And a key way to make livestock an economically viable option on small and medium-sized farms is to provide rural communities with a consistent, quality local meat processing infrastructure.

That’s why the recent announcement that the new Endowed Chair in Agricultural Systems at the University of Minnesota will focus on local meat processing is such welcome news. And that the Endowed Chair will be occupied by three people who have extensive backgrounds in the meat industry is even more exciting. In December, the board of directors for the U of M’s Minnesota Institute for Sustainable Agriculture (MISA) announced that Tom Nuessmeier, Paul Sobocinski, and Julio Cesar Tena Soria will be serving in the Endowed Chair position. Additionally, through the Endowed Chair, funding will be provided to support Ryan Solberg, a graduate student within the public policy master’s program at the Humphrey School of Public Affairs.

The Endowed Chair was set up in 1995 to, according to the program’s website,  “provide a unique opportunity for leaders in the academic, business, farming, government, and nonprofit sectors of agriculture, rural development, and related fields to contribute to and help shape the future of rural Minnesota.” The program is managed by MISA, which is a unique partnership between the U of M’s College of Food, Agricultural and Natural Resource Sciences (CFANS) and U of M Extension, as well as the Sustainers’ Coalition, a group of nonprofit community organizations that includes LSP.

Being named to the Endowed Chair position means Nuessmeier, Sobocinski, and Tena will have the resources needed to dig into how we can support efforts to, among other things, develop apprenticeship opportunities for meat processing entrepreneurs wanting to enter the industry and own a business. As with family farmers, small meat processors are grappling with how to hand off their businesses as they near retirement. Faced with a dearth of younger people who are trained to take on a meat processing business, and lacking the basic legal and economic resources needed to make the transition, many local processors have simply closed shop permanently.

This has put farmers who direct-market meat in a precarious situation, which many having to reserve slaughtering slots more than a year in advance. They also find themselves spending several hours hauling animals to the few remaining processors, which cuts into the time they could be spending farming.

The diminishment of local options for processing animals comes at a time when the meatpacking industry in general has become consolidated at an unprecedented level. This is bad news not only for farmers hoping to direct-market what they raise, but for the rural economy in general, as well as the workers in processing plants, many of whom are people of color and new immigrants.

The COVID-19 pandemic revealed the dangers of relying on a handful of meat giants to process our nation’s livestock.  As the illness flourished in the tight confines of meat plants, processing capacity plummeted and in some cases farmers were forced to euthenize their animals. The few local processors remaining were overwhelmed with the demand, while plant workers were putting their own health at risk to the point that many died. Meanwhile, Big Meat carried on business as usual, making more money than ever.

Nuessmeier, Sobocinski, and Tena serve as the directors of the Minnesota Farmers Union’s Solving the Local Meat Processing Bottleneck Project. A few years ago, an initial group of project leaders, including Sobocinski, interviewed 57 small meat processors and issued a report with several recommendations. Thanks to this report and the work of LSP, MFU, and our allies, the 2023 Legislature funded numerous initiatives that support small meat processors, including creating a Meat & Poultry Processing Liaison position at the Minnesota Department of Agriculture, providing $544,000 for small meat processor training and employee retention grants, and bolstering funding for the popular AGRI Meat, Poultry, Egg, and Dairy Processing Grant program. The AGRI grant program is instrumental in supporting small and mid-sized processors across the state and has a huge impact in supporting the development of regional food systems.

Having the Endowed Chair focus on local meat processing is good for both practical and symbolic reasons. On the practical side, these three people can help take local meat processing a step further in resolving the problem it has recruiting the next generation of workers and entrepreneurs. On the symbolic side, having a U of M institution recognize the need for a better local meat processing infrastructure is an acknowledgment that reintegrating livestock onto the land in a sustainable manner is something worth supporting with public resources. It’s a major contrast to how the land grant system often seems committed to promoting the consolidated, industrialized model of agriculture.

“Our board recognizes the real importance of small processors to sustainable livestock farmers and emerging farmers, and we look forward to the project’s effort to recruit a diverse workforce that is inclusive and will contribute to small processors’ resiliency, so vital for our rural communities,” Helene Murray, MISA’s executive director, said in a media statement announcing the awarding of the Endowed Chair.

And I can’t think of three people more qualified to pursue this work. Both Sobocinksi and Nuesmeier are hog farmers as well as former LSP organizers. In that latter role, they worked extensively on issues related to livestock consolidation and helping farmers fight to attain fair access to markets. (On an LSP Ear to the Ground podcast, Sobocinski talks about some of the results of that organizing.)  Tena began working with the Bottleneck Project in March 2024 and leads the group’s outreach to the Hispanic community.

I’m looking forward to seeing what this team comes up with in the coming year — this is an initiative involving the right people with the right priorities. And the timing couldn’t be better for tackling an issue that has impacts on our food supply, rural economies, farms, and the land. Breaking this particular bottleneck could generate beaucoup benefits.

LSP managing editor Brian DeVore can be contacted via e-mail.

 

 

Category: Blog
Tags: ag consolidation • livestock production • local meat processing • Minnesota Farmers Union • regenerative agriculture • reintegrating livestock • rural economic development

Upcoming Events

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October 2025

Tuesday October 7

6:30 pm – 8:00 pm
Book Event: We Can Do Better: Collected Writings on Land, Conservation, and Public Policy
Tuesday October 7
6:30 pm – 8:00 pm
Book Event: We Can Do Better: Collected Writings on Land, Conservation, and Public Policy
The Landing Market, 211 College Dr, Decorah, IA 52101, USA

The Johnson Center for Land Stewardship Policy is excited to share that one of our its primary pillars of work — a published collection of Paul Johnson’s writings —  is set for release on Oct. 2.  The book features a brief biography and a discussion of Paul’s ideas within the historical and future contexts of private lands conservation. Details on the event are available here.

For details on We Can Do Better: Collected Writings on Land, Conservation, and Public Policy click here.

 

Friday October 10

8:30 am – 3:00 pm
Weaving a Wider Community: Seeing & Countering Racism in Our Backyard
Friday October 10
8:30 am – 3:00 pm
Weaving a Wider Community: Seeing & Countering Racism in Our Backyard
111 N 1st St, Montevideo, MN 56265, USA

Join LSP and CURE for a community event at the Land Stewardship Project office in Montevideo (111 N. First St.), from 8:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., on Friday, Oct. 10. This event includes lunch catered by El Mana; please register by Oct. 3 to be included in the food count.

You can RSVP here.

The Racial Equity Conference, organized by the Greater Minnesota Partnership of the Facilitating Racial Equity Collaborative, has been specifically designed to bring engaging content to local communities through a unique pairing of online speakers and in-person local sessions. The morning’s online content will include a conversation focused on seeing and countering racism in rural communities, moderated by Eryn Gee Killough, paired with two outstanding keynote speakers, Jenna Grey Eagle and Ron Ferguson, who have experience working in rural communities. 

This online content will be exclusively available to local community gatherings. Each gathering will gear their in-person activity to their specific community with the goal of extending the impact of the conference to others throughout the following year. Join LSP and CURE for this western Minnesota gathering, or if a different location works better for you, check out all the local gatherings on the FREC site,

If you have any questions, do not hesitate to reach out. LSP’s Nick Olson can be reached via e-mail at nicko@landstewardshipproject.org.

9:00 am – 3:00 pm
Intensive Small-Scale Market Gardening Bus Tour
Friday October 10
9:00 am – 3:00 pm
Intensive Small-Scale Market Gardening Bus Tour
Leatherdale Equine Center, 1801 Dudley Ave, St Paul, MN 55108, USA

Explore profitable small-scale farming (1–5 acres) and soil care. Visit a cooperative incubator farm and a thriving suburban market garden. Learn about cover crops, reduced tillage, high tunnel soil health, and support for growers.

This is the second tour in a three-part soil health bus tour series. Participants can sign up for just one, two, or all three tours. Register at https://z.umn.edu/vegetablebustours. The cost is $15 (flat fee, covers 1, 2, or 3 tours). There are more details in the attached flyer.

Saturday October 11

11:00 am – 2:00 pm
LSP-COPAL Visita a la Granja | Farm Tour
Saturday October 11
11:00 am – 2:00 pm
LSP-COPAL Visita a la Granja | Farm Tour
36919 County 57 Blvd, Dennison, MN 55018, USA

Building off the success of last year’s farm event with COPAL in Austin, Minn., this year Land Stewardship Project and COPAL members and supporters will gather at the Young-Walser Family Farm in Dennison, Minn. for a festive and delicious farm tour on Saturday, Oct. 11, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. We invite you to come and meet new folks, learn new skills, and try new food! 
 
This year’s COPAL-LSP farm event offers a little something for everyone: 
 
🍯 Honey sampling and the opportunity to purchase from Homestead Honey Farm. 
 
🍎 Apple cider pressing and tasting. (BTW, we’re still looking for an apple press if you or a farmer friend have one nearby we could borrow for this event!) 
 
🌽 Nixtamalization workshop and fresh, homemade tortillas, made with corn grown by LSP and COPAL members at the Young-Walser Family Farm! 
 
🍅 Salsa making and cricket-eating competitions! Yes, you heard that right —we’ll have the opportunity to sample crickets, a delectable crispy and savory snack commonly enjoyed throughout Mexico and Central America. Stay tuned for details on how to enter either competition. 
 
🥾 A tour of the Young-Walser farm, nestled in the beautiful Sogn Valley not far from Cannon Falls, Minn. Enjoy a tromp through the corn and squash fields and hike in the nearby woods. 
 
🌮 A shared meal and opportunity to hear from LSP and COPAL organizers about our participation in the Immigrant Defense Network. 

Let us know you can make it to ensure we order enough food and supplies! Carpools from Minneapolis and Rochester will be available to all attendees. 

________________________________________________

¡Únete a LSP + COPAL para nuestro recorrido anual comunitario en la granja!
Un espacio divertido para tod@s donde exploraremos la agricultura, aprenderemos sobre el campo y participaremos en actividades prácticas. ¡Uno de los momentos más especiales será hacer tortillas frescas junt@s!

Compartiremos un delicioso almuerzo comunitario, preparando tacos en estilo potluck (tipo convivio). Te invitamos a traer un platillo o acompañamiento para compartir.

También estás invitado@ a llegar temprano (desde las 9 AM) para ayudar a cosechar calabazas que sembramos. Puedes llevarte algunas a casa, y el resto se donará a un banco de alimentos local.

El Land Stewardship Project (LSP) es una organización aliada de COPAL que trabaja por sistemas alimentarios y agrícolas más sostenibles y justos. LSP y COPAL están unidas en su lucha por instituciones democráticas sólidas, comunidades saludables y acogedoras, y una ética de cuidado hacia la tierra y las personas que nos alimentan.

Tuesday October 14

11:00 am – 12:00 pm
Birds as Pest Control Allies on the Farm
Tuesday October 14
11:00 am – 12:00 pm
Birds as Pest Control Allies on the Farm
Online

This 10-lesson Wild Farm Alliance virtual course teaches agricultural professionals and farmers how to support beneficial birds and manage pest birds on farms. By learning how to assess the farm’s avian needs and opportunities, farms can be designed to provide for a diversity of beneficial birds. 

If pest birds are a problem, they can be discouraged with specific practices during the shorter periods when they cause damage. The sessions cover the latest research, tools and resources, and are given by experts in avian pest control, entomology, ornithology and conservation. While many topics and species are specific to the Midwest, most of the principles discussed are applicable across regions. 

Continuing Education Credits have been requested and are expected to be approved from American Society of Agronomy.

For details and to register, click here. 

The Course Schedule:

LESSON 1

Why Birds Belong on the Farm: Biodiversity, Pest Control & A Thriving Landscape

Tuesday, September 23, 2 p.m. CT


LESSON 2

Birds as Pest Control Allies on the Farm

Tuesday, October 14, 11 a.m. CT


LESSON 3

Birds in the Balance: Pest Control Services Across Crop Types

Tuesday, November 4, 11 a.m. CT


LESSON 4

Integrating Habitat into Croplands: Prairie Strips and Bird Conservation

Tuesday, December 2, 11 a.m. CT


LESSON 5

Birds on the Farm: Balancing Biodiversity and Food Safety

Tuesday, January 13, 11 a.m. CT


LESSON 6

Beyond the Crop: Birds, Biodiversity, and the Power of Edge Habitat

Tuesday, February 3, 11 a.m. CT


LESSON 7

Bridging Forestry, Farming, and Habitat

Tuesday, February 24, 11 a.m. CT


LESSON 8

Perennial Pathways: Agroforestry for Birds and Biodiversity on Farms

Tuesday, March 17, 11 a.m. CT


LESSON 9

Birds on the Range: How Grazing Practices Shape Habitat for Grassland Species

Tuesday, April 7, 11 a.m. CT


LESSON 10

Birds at Risk: How Pesticides Shape Safety on Agricultural Lands

Tuesday, April 28, 11 a.m. CT

View Full Calendar

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