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The Devil’s in the Details

Regenerative Ag Can Help Bring Our Dysfunctional Relationship with Phosphorus Back into Balance

By Brian DeVore
February 26, 2025

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In the early 2000s, I wrote a series of Land Stewardship Letter articles about a generic environmental impact statement study that was done on Minnesota’s livestock industry. The final report had an interesting finding related to phosphorus, a key source of crop fertility: small livestock farms had a medium phosphorus shortage of 17 pounds per acre, while the largest feedlots had a phosphorus surplus of 38 pounds.

It turned out the larger operations tended to have less land per animal available to spread the manure; it’s not economically viable to transport liquid manure more than a few miles from its source. Smaller and medium-sized farms were more likely to have a variety of crops, along with pasture grasses, growing nearby, thus providing land for manure application. In such a closed-loop system, an element like phosphorus gets taken up by the plants that, in turn, serve as a feed source for the animals. For CAFOs, phosphorus and other byproducts of livestock production morph from sources of fertility to waste products to be disposed of.

As journalist Dan Egan writes in the book, The Devil’s Element: Phosphorus and a World out of Balance, such situations have created what he calls the “phosphorus paradox—at the same time as we are drawing down our increasingly precious caches of mineable phosphorus rock we are overdosing our waters with it.”

Phosphorus is part of a mighty trifecta that makes modern agriculture possible. Levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium — N-P-K — are monitored obsessively by farmers and agronomists. As Egan reports, it turns out phosphorus has never been easy to come by — the bones left on European battlefields were once “harvested” for their phosphorus content. The rock deposits we rely on today for phosphorus do not regenerate on a human timescale. Predictions about when we will run out of this element worldwide range from a few decades to 400 years from now.

But as Egan argues, paying attention to worldwide stocks may be moot — it’s the regional exhaustion that may cause the most upheaval in our food supply. Three-quarters of the rock phosphorus consumed in the U.S. is dug up in Florida, and those mines are on pace to be exhausted in as little as 30 years. Between 70% and 80% of the world’s phosphorus is located in Morocco and a Western Sahara territory it controls.

“For one country, essentially one guy — the king of Morocco — to control so much of something every plant so desperately needs is a recipe for global instability, or worse,” writes Egan.

Meanwhile, the reliance of row crops like corn have on phosphorus fertilizer, coupled with the growth of massive CAFOs and their production of phosphorus-laced liquid manure, have made this element a major environmental threat. Algae blooms fueled by phosphorus runoff are destroying water quality across the U.S. In one troubling incident, in August 2014 a plume of toxin produced by phosphorus-fueled cyanobacteria made its way into the Lake Erie water intake for Toledo, Ohio. Overnight, some 400,000 people couldn’t drink the water from their taps. By mid-summer, much of Minnesota’s surface waters will be green with phosphorus-fueled algae, spawning fish kills and making swimming a health risk.

 In his reporting for the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel, as well as in his 2017 book, The Death and Life of the Great Lakes, Egan proved adept at relaying “good news-bad news.” The Devil’s Element is no exception. The good news is that in the past we were able to get a handle on the phosphorus problem when states began imposing restrictions on how much of the element could be used in laundry detergents. As a result, lakes and rivers that had been inundated by algae recovered. The bad news is industrial agriculture has brought those algae blooms back with a vengeance.

The Wisconsin-based Egan describes the situation in that state’s Brown County, on the southern end of Green Bay. It’s home to numerous dairy CAFOs, and their manure is making its way into the water, which at times becomes so oxygen-starved that fish escape by flopping onto land. Residents have turned to using leaf blowers to push asphyxiating fish back into the water.

Egan would like to see heavier restrictions on how large farming operations utilize fertilizer and produce manure waste. There’s no doubt that at least the threat of a stick can have positive impacts. Shortly after Toledo’s algae bloom debacle, I was on a Land Stewardship Letter reporting trip in neighboring Indiana trying to figure out why that state was such a leader in cover-cropping. Farmers there repeatedly brought up the Toledo situation, and felt that building soil health was one way to avoid the regulations that could be prompted by such disasters.

So how do we work our way out of the “phosphorus paradox”? Frankly, the ”solutions” part of the otherwise excellent Devil’s Element was the least satisfying. The author describes some exciting ways to stop wasting so much of the element from the time it’s mined to when it’s applied as fertilizer — it turns out people are quite innovative when a scarcity approach is taken to a resource. But he touches all too briefly on efforts to support soil health practices that aren’t as reliant on phosphorus in the first place, and, when it’s applied, create the kind of environment that makes efficient use of the element.

Egan describes one “solution” the owners of dairy CAFOS like to tout: using anaerobic digesters to process manure into fuel. But such technology creates a situation where milk is a byproduct of manure production. In other words, CAFOs will have an incentive to grow even larger, and thus produce even more manure — and phosphorus.

The phosphorus cycle, much like the nitrogen cycle in places like southeastern Minnesota, is broken. We need policies, science, and markets that promote a regenerative farming system that closes the nutrient loop. It would be great to see a journalist like Egan spend time with some of the farmers who are part of the Land Stewardship Project’s Soil Builders’ Network — they are proving a broken system can be repaired. Such connections might not be a big stretch for the writer — at one point he describes a “sustainable dairy farming” system in which a cow grazes on well maintained pastureland, spreading its manure in an even pattern that results in more forage being grown, which in turn is then consumed by the cow.

“And on and on it goes — a virtuous cycle,” writes Egan.

Exactly.

Brian DeVore is the editor of the Land Stewardship Letter, producer of LSP’s Ear to the Ground podcast, and the author of Wildly Successful Farming: Sustainability and the New Agricultural Land Ethic.

Category: Blog
Tags: CAFO • cover cropping • Dan Egan • Devil's Element • fertilizer • manure • methane digesters • Phosphorus • regenerative farming • water quality

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January 2026

Tuesday January 20

5:00 pm – 8:00 pm
Making the Most of Each Acre: Integrating Livestock onto Cropland
Tuesday January 20
5:00 pm – 8:00 pm
Making the Most of Each Acre: Integrating Livestock onto Cropland
680 Byron Main Ct. NE Byron, MN 55920

In this interactive workshop, farmers will learn about important soil, finance, crop, and livestock concepts related to crop and livestock integration. In addition to presentations by Extension educators, participants will engage in activities to put their newfound knowledge to the test. Participants will gain knowledge, new connections, and a personalized plan for integrating crops and livestock on their farm.
 
For details and to register, click here. 

Wednesday January 21

5:00 pm – 7:00 pm
Farm Aid Farmer Listening Session
Wednesday January 21
5:00 pm – 7:00 pm
Farm Aid Farmer Listening Session
Zoom online

What’s your story?

Farm Aid wants to hear from farmers about what they experienced in 2025 and what concerns they have heading into the 2026 season. Farm Aid will use the information and stories we hear during this listening session to make sure that our advocacy and policy work is grounded in the needs and experiences of family farmers right now.

Come learn more about Farm Aid’s policy and advocacy work, share your story with the Farm Aid community, and hear from farmers around the country about what they’re experiencing.

For more information and to register, click here. 

If you can’t make it to this listening session, share your story with us by filling out this form. 

Thursday January 22 – Saturday January 24

GrassWorks Grazing Conference
Thursday January 22 – Saturday January 24
GrassWorks Grazing Conference
La Crosse Center, 300 Harborview Plaza, La Crosse, WI 54601, USA

The 34th Annual GrassWorks Grazing Conference will take place Jan. 22–24 at the La Crosse Center in La Crosse, Wis.

The 2026 conference will be centered on the theme: “Pastures to Prosperity: Building financially smart grazing systems for today’s land stewards.” This year’s focus highlights practical, innovative, and profitable approaches to grass-based livestock production, equipping farmers with tools to strengthen both environmental and economic sustainability.

GrassWorks is excited to welcome two nationally recognized keynote speakers:

  • Melinda Sims, Wyoming cattle rancher and Ranching for Profit instructor, known for her expertise in financial decision-making and resilient ranch business models.
  • Dwayne Estes, Executive Director of the Southeastern Grasslands Institute, a leading voice in grassland restoration, regenerative grazing, and agricultural landscape resilience.

Conference highlights include:

  • More than 60 expert speakers from across the grazing and agricultural sectors
  • Over 45 industry exhibitors featuring the latest in grazing tools, technology, and services.
  • Workshops for beginning, expanding, and experienced graziers
  • Panel discussions on farm profitability, land stewardship, and long-term business resilience.
  • Robust networking opportunities with farmers, technical service providers, and industry partners.

The GrassWorks Grazing Conference draws farmers, agricultural professionals, educators, and conservation partners from across the Midwest and beyond. Attendees can expect practical education, actionable strategies, and meaningful connections.

Registration information can be found at https://grassworks.org/events/grazing-conference.

Tuesday January 27

9:00 am – 3:00 pm
'Beyond Exports: Rebuilding Local Markets' LSP Soil Health Workshop
Tuesday January 27
9:00 am – 3:00 pm
'Beyond Exports: Rebuilding Local Markets' LSP Soil Health Workshop
Rochester International Event Center, 7333 Airport View Dr SW, Rochester, MN 55902, USA

On Tuesday, January 27 join Land Stewardship Project for our signature winter workshop. This year’s theme is “Beyond Exports: Rebuilding Local Markets”.

The workshop will be held from 9am to 3pm at the Rochester International Event Center (73333 Airport View Dr SW, Rochester, MN 55902).  Our featured keynote speaker is Martin Larsen, a farmer who is a founding member of the “Oat Mafia” in south-central Minnesota.  In the morning session, Martin will highlight the challenges and opportunities facing all farmers as they look beyond export load-out at the elevator and instead look to recreate the local markets that once served our farmers and consumers.  He will share his journey establishing food grade oats and founding the “oat mafia” and the agronomic, economic, and market impacts it has made for his farm.

After the keynote, attendees will have the option to choose two of three breakout sessions with local experts:

Session 1: Economics of Diversifying Your Rotations
Session 2: Marketing Your Alternative Crops
Session 3: Derisking Diversifying Your Rotations

Breakfast and a catered lunch will be provided.  

For details and to register, click here.
 
You may also contact event organizer Shea-Lynn Ramthun at 651-301-1897 or slramthun@landstewardshipproject.org. 

5:30 pm – 8:00 pm
LSP Farm Transition Planning Course
Tuesday January 27
5:30 pm – 8:00 pm
LSP Farm Transition Planning Course
Zoom Online

The Land Stewardship Project’s long-running course for farmers and other landowners looking to transition their agricultural operations to the next generation is expanding into South Dakota in 2026. The Land Stewardship Project (LSP) Winter Farm Transition Planning Course, which enters its 10th session in 2026, provides a holistic opportunity to dig into important topics and learn from experienced farmers and professionals about the options that farmers and landowners have when looking to pass their farm on.

The standard Zoom online LSP course will be held on seven Tuesday evenings starting on January 27 and running through March 10. The sessions build on one another, so attendance at all sessions ensures the greatest understanding and planning opportunities. The course fee is $250 per family, and registration is open through Jan. 9 at https://landstewardshipproject.org/transition2026.

New this year is an expanded course offering for South Dakota attendees as part of a partnership LSP has formed with Dakota Rural Action and Rural Revival.

The South Dakota course, led by Dakota Rural Action and Rural Revival and using the LSP curriculum, includes seven weekly in-person sessions, with a full-day Saturday kick-off session, and another full-day session to close the training. Sessions two through six will take place on Tuesday evenings for two-and-a-half hours. The dates are: Jan. 31, Feb. 3, Feb. 10,  Feb. 17, Feb. 24, March 3 and March 14. As with the fully online course, the course fee is $250 per family, and the registration deadline is Jan. 9. To register for the South Dakota course, visit https://qrco.de/farmtransitions2026.

Presenters at both workshops will include other area farmers who are implementing farm transition plans, as well as professionals representing the legal and financial fields as they relate to agricultural businesses. Workshop participants will have an opportunity to begin engaging in the planning process as well as to learn about resources for continuing the process after the workshop has ended.

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